volleyball in Egum
canoe fest in Ferguson
November 22, 2007 Alotau, PNG
Last night PCRF showed their canoe festival film at the Napatana Lodge. Really good, but long. The crowd was getting restless, that’s for sure. It was a nice night though. It was Arie’s last night and he was staying at the hotel, so it was good to be able to send him off and take a nice hot shower again.
Today was a rainy day. I was on the food crew, first storing dry food down below, and then going to the market for fresh food with Max again. After lunch, it was still pouring down rain, and we had to go to the market. So I was stuck in the market with freakin annoying Max once again. I tried to not let him get to me so much this time. Ya that didn’t happen, he was still obnoxious. That was an hour of food shopping with Max, and then it was 4, time to meet the boat, and no boat. The plan was for us to be picked up with the dinghy with our huge load of food at the market dock. Well the dinghy never showed up. Really down pouring and getting soaked waiting around sucked. I waited an hour and a half, while Max waited a half an hour. Ridiculous Max as usual. “I’m taking a taxi back.” Totally ditched me with this huge load of food, by myself on this wharf dock in the rain, with these men hanging out drinking beers. I went and talked to a couple waiting by a boat, and when the lady said it wasn’t safe to be here by myself, I high tailed it out of there. I had them watch my stuff and I went up the road and got a taxi. Loaded all my stuff up and took a taxi back to the ship.
I was raging pissed by the time I got back to the dock. It turns out, they didn’t forget about us. James was coming over in the dinghy to pick us up and he hit something. The engine came off the dinghy and sunk! It literally came off it’s bolts. He must have hit something pretty good. He was ok, just fell into the boat, because he had the safety cord on his leg. Of course, there was an accident sequence on board when I made it back to the ship. I was just so pissed at Max though, I couldn’t even focus on what had happened with the engine. I can’t believe he just left me sitting there in the rain with all the stuff, just like here figure it out and try not to get raped. What a jerk. Common sense would have told you, umm maybe I shouldn’t leave a girl alone here when it’s about to get dark. What’s done is done though, he’s never going to learn. Just an idiot with no real life skills, and he doesn’t want to learn any either. No apology when we got back to the boat, and he knew I was pissed. Absolutely annoyed and hating him at the moment. Keeping my distance for now, but I had a talk with Orla, that it’s just a test of what I can handle, and you can’t let him get to you. I’ll def be working on that.
November 23-28, 2007 Ferguson Island, PNG
Wow! So much has happened in the past few days, it feels like a world away. I’ll do my best to recap. To start, after losing the engine and not being able to dive for it, the next day, 2 brand new yamaha engines were bought and brought straight to the boat. Crazy really, having Gaie and Laser on board, things really get done ASAP. Also the next day, Orla, Heather, Max and I had a talk on the bow about how it was wrong for him to leave me in the market and other things. Turns out that he really still blames PCRF for the accident, and how he almost died, and blah, blah, blah. The kid really isn’t equipped with any life experiences. If he can’t handle it, he should leave. I think some of the talk got through to him, hopefully.
Have I mentioned the new crew on board? Pretty nuts for sure. Cynthia and Hugh are from New Mexico. They’re nice, super hippy, but still nice to have around. Hugh is really easy to chat with, and wants to be absorbed in the culture of the youth on board. Ha! Pretty ridic. Cynthia is a practicing Buddhist monk, so everything is beautiful, she has her own mediations on the bow, and she insists on lighting incense everywhere. Gigi is older, in her late fifties, has a killer body for an older lady. Yep, that’s about her only positive attribute. She lives on this park called Three Rivers and takes people on soul searching trips there. She has tried to communicate with dolphins and whales for 2 yrs with the help of a child, a musician, and an artist. Yes, she is that weird, nice but yeah anyone who actually believes they can communicate with dolphins, like she can feel what they feel….ummm. Clementine has slept for about 3 of the 4 days she has been on board now. Quirky and wiry when she is awake though. Really trying hard to be accepted I think. She doesn’t speak English too well, and she sleeps with a pacifier. Ya no clue about that one. Kristina and John are pretty cool. Glad their American and like to play cards. We’ve started to play cribbage now, remember why I hated that game, way too much thinking involved. They really deal with the same frustrations all the volunteers deal with on board, which is good to hear it’s not just us.
Well now that’s out of the way…we had a beautiful full moon sail with good wind out of Alotau and onto Ferguson Island/ Dobu where our sailing canoe friends are. Now that we’re here again, its really great to see all the familiar faces again. I’ve really become attached to some of the beauitful kids here. They still all come to the boat and just hang out with us, watching our every move. We’ve been here three days, and have had a great time with everyone. Zack and I are really feeling like we’ve gone back to Somosomo in Fiji again. Yesterday James, Zack, Max, and I had one of the canoe captains, Kevin, take us on a walk to the hot springs that were supposedly 20 min away. Zack had to cook a Sunday night dinner that night with Orla and Michel and they were absolutely furious when we came back an hour and a half late, since it was like an hour hike there and an hour back. The hot springs were amazing, it felt like entering another land. The ground was literally bubbling underneath our feet. Our guides were insistent that we follow their footsteps, as the ground wasn’t so good there. There were holes in the rock that were spewing with boiling water. People go there to wash clothes, cook, and for suicide! Pretty nuts, they were saying back in the old days, when cannibalism was still around, they would bring bodies to the hot springs and boil them so they could be eaten. There was one area that was cool enough to swim/bathe really. So nice to be in hot water again. We shampooed and wished we had wine in our hot spring bathtub. Max was of course, loving it. Saying this was the coolest thing he’s ever done in his life. Yeah def not the coolest, for me, but it’s Max, you can see his little bubble of experiences getting bigger every day. The other day he baked for the first time by himself (banana bread), the boy is 18 for christ sake. Back to the hike, it was a great Sunday afternoon although we were all dreading having to go back and have Sunday speeches. They last about 2 hours with 18 people! We had a whole mob of little kids trailing behind us the whole time, giggling and laughing as we walked. I learned a little of the local language on the way. Most of the walk was a worn out path lined with flowers, palm trees, banana trees, and groups of small huts. The little kids and sometimes their parents would run out of their huts, just to see the dim-dims (white people) walking by. Good afternoon is ‘Asi nua nua bobo ana.’ Good night is ‘Asi bouy bouy bobo ana.’ And thank you is ‘Ky-ownie.’ What a great afternoon though, I’m really thankful that we got a chance to go and do that in the few days we were back at Ferguson Island.
Festival!
The next two days were a whirlwind of mini-festival put on by the locals for us. I guess they had it planned while we were gone for past month. It was such a unique experience. Not touristy like the last festival in Vanuatu, because it was only ‘us’ there. It was put on to celebrate the EPOI canoes and the paddlers that came to the festival in Alotau. Michel got to show his film from the event too. The villagers loved it, since most of them have never been to the canoe festival, let alone Alotau. All four EPOI canoes paddled out to the boat to take us in on the first day. I got on one by myself with the locals and paddled in with them. I was a horrible paddler compared to them! I kept whacking the guy behind me and screwing everyone else up. I did finally get it, but I had to look down at my paddle the whole time, I couldn’t even see where we were going. Once we got to shore, we were all told to huddle at this side of the beach. Men came out in native clothes (as in leaves, covering their areas) and painted faces with wood spears, charging right for us! Some people in our group were legitimately scared (like our new guests). I couldn’t help but laugh as I knew they weren’t serious, they were just acting out how it would have been in the past. The crowd of locals gathered all around us were cracking up, they loved it. After we were all introduced to the chief and seated, some of the small kids stood in a line in front of us, in grass skirts and leaves in their hair, with kula necklaces strung down their backs. Really beautiful scene. An older lady demonstrated how fire was made and how to cook yams in clay pots with a few of the kids helping. Again, beautiful little kids, they were just hammin it up too. I snapped some great pics.
After that demonstration, we were lead to another area of the small village to rest and have some fresh fruit and coconuts they had prepared for us. Well we all went over there, like a herd of cattle, and Michel began to do his silly little interviews with the locals. Kristina, Max, James, and I had a bite to eat, but proceeded to go play with the little kids that had gathered nearby on a dirt patch and a small grassy field. The boys started up a game of soccer with the small boys, and Kris and I played Duck, Duck, Goose with all the little girls and a few boys too. Not sure if they really understood how to play, I had a couple of the older girls explain the game to them, but they still loved it. I definitely have a few favorite kids. I found out later that there is a few kids with parents from the Solomon Islands and the Trobrinand Islands, so those mixes must have infiltrated in. After the games and our boys chewing beetle nut with the guys, we headed back to the boat in the late afternoon. I thought it was going to be a relaxing day in the village, but it was anything but. I was so exhausted. Watched a movie on the bow with Kristina and Nicole under the stars, but we all fell asleep mid-movie.
The next day we had another lazy morning on board the ship, and I had to help cook lunch so I was stuck on board. I did go in to the village in the afternoon for the exchange that was going on. The exchange is usually between 2 villages in thanks. Well we performed an exchange with the village that put on the event for us. It was really great. We gave a meager pile of ‘stuff.’ Rice, clothes, soaps, sugar, an old sail, etc. In exchange we received a huge load of fresh food. Papayas, pineapples, star fruit, taro, yams, pumpkins, bananas, sweet potatoes, watermelons, limes, baskets….and the list goes on! It was amazing how much food they gave us, I hope they still have some for themselves. The ceremony was touching. They started by laying out 2 mats, and then put a little pile of food on it. Then a crowd of the canoe guys we knew started singing and about 6 large families lined up and kept distributing food into the pile. The mound was huge! We didn’t lie out our pile so gracefully, but we set out loot down and sang the fatele for them and this almost yodeling song Gigi taught us about the ‘dolphin tribe.’ b.s. really. But the all the little kids liked it though; they were all singing it later that evening. After the exchange, a large group of us went back to the ship, but I decided to stay for the showing of the canoe festival film we had made. I guess they showed it last night too, but some people missed it, so we watched it again. I just kept thinking that this is probably their one movie of the year and the whole village came out for the event. At home I almost watch a new movie every week, either renting them or going to the theater. We set up James’s white bed sheet and our projector, and a crowd of at least a hundred all sat down ready to watch the film. They loved it, during the EPOI racing they could name all the different canoes, and they were really cheering them on like it would help them win. Great to see them enjoying it so much. I was really pushing myself to stay so long in the village though, so tired again. Came back and crashed out. The boys were drinking jungle juice (jj) on the stern with some local villagers. I didn’t try any. Zack made it, and it’s basically drinking liquid bread dough. Gross.
November 29-30, 2007 Ferguson to Egum
The next morning was a sad goodbye to our friends on Ferguson. They all paddled out to the boat in their canoes to send us off. It was only a 70 mi sail to Egum atoll of the coast of Ferguson Island, but of course, it took us overnight and by the middle of the next day the decision was made that we should put the engine on. I mean I do like sailing and all, but budging along at two knots for 24 hours kind of sucks. The night of our sail, a Wednesday night, everyone that didn’t have a watch decided to watch a movie on the big screen very loudly. It was so rude to all of us that had to wake up in the middle of the night to take care of the ship. I didn’t get too much sleep before my watch when I had to wake up at midnight and stay awake until 4. It was Gaie, Laser, Gigi, Cynthia, Hugh. It was as if they didn’t even care that we were trying to sleep. James even came up the stairs and asked them to keep it down, of course without any response from anyone. Just piss poor really.
We did finally arrive to Egum and it is really beautiful. There is one small stretch of island and then a few small out croppings of islands in the distance and that is it here. We are anchored on the rim of a sunken volcano that has filled in with coral heads over time. It was a pretty dodgy channel to get into this anchorage. We maneuvered around several coral heads and got close to our max bottom depth (which we never come close to). You can see the bottom at 30 ft here, crystal clear blue. Paradise really. I caught a cold for the past two days and haven’t been able to dive, so I’ve just snorkeled around the boat a bit. Still pretty, lots of fish schooling over the coral heads. I think I picked up my cold from Cynthia and Gigi who had caught a cold from traveling. It sucked though, I was so clogged up and I couldn’t even nap the days away. I couldn’t get to sleep. I got through it though and I feel loads better a few days later. I’m proud of myself though, I only took Tylenol once and other than that I just laid low, drank water, and took vitamins.
Since we’ve been in Egum we’ve done a few seriously hippy events. First off, Cynthia has been involved in united 13 indigenous grandmothers from around the world to come together live on t.v. in India, to meet with this conference called Bioneers in California. She made a film and everything about this ‘space bridge’ she created, and how the grandmothers can heal the world’s suffering through prayer. At first the conference, Bioneers sounded at least like a cool idea. It was explained as people from all walks of life come together (scientists, teachers, researchers) and spend a week liberally coming up with solutions to the world’s problems. Well what we got from the film, it’s a bunch of crazy hippies, not really solving anything at all. It was really out there, totally turned me off to the idea. Later Kris, said the conference is really cool, and what was shown on the film is just an hour of two of the week.
Well there was the film that everyone loved and was so proud of. Then there is the Earth treasure vase that we’ve been carrying around for four years on board. You might remember me mentioning it back in Fiji. The vase is Cynthia’s. She gave it to us from some monk that she got it from in Tibet. Vases are placed all over the world to help heal the Earth. Yeah, give me a break. But anyways, it was a whole ordeal with this vase. We sealed it up and put it in a cave underwater in Egum and buried it in with rocks. People were seriously crying and mourning over finally parting with the vase. Again, crazy hippy shit. But whatever, it goes on, on board so I have to sort of be a part of it, whether I like it or not.
We did have an amazing lobster dinner on board. Finally! It was sooo good. Heather grilled them on the stove with garlic and butter. Yumm! We trade 12 lobsters with the locals for rice and sugar. They were pretty small, but still delicious. I cleaned them like a pro. One had eggs which I had to clean off, which I hated to do, but it was dead already. I have been snorkeling around the boat, but haven’t seen any lobsters. We really haven’t had the chance to scout out the area here though, and hunt for lobsters, so much emphasis has been put on that freakin vase. After dinner that night we had an intense open table. Where things really got said, even by the visitors on board. It was refreshing really to let everything out. The whole ‘us/them’ idea was mentioned. How the officers are hypocritical about things, how we are treated like staff, you know…the same old, same old. But it went ok. Laser only flared up once and called Max ‘a little shit.’ Hugh didn’t appreciate the unnecessary name calling and put Laser in his place about it. It was also said by the visitors, that no wonder we have issues communicating with the officers as they are all so overbearing and not willing to listen to the issues.
December 1, 2007 Egum
It’s finally December! Wow, I can’t believe it’s supposed to be winter. I’m feeling a lot better today, than the past couple days. This morning we had acting class, which went ok. Of course Max and Clemintine fought it all the way. I was supposed to help Clemintine cook breakfast and lunch today, but she said, “Ok well I did breakfast and you do lunch.” Umm no! I don’t think so. Especially when you have to cook lunch after acting class, when everyone is starving and lunch is usually an hour late. I recruited new help in the form of James and Heather. Whipped up some baked potato chunks, fried chicken, and my oriental coleslaw.
In the afternoon, a group of us went into the village to play a volleyball tournament against the locals. The village was so picturesque. Perfect white powdery sand beach, thatched huts built up on stilts right near the water, and people everywhere living an ultra simple life.
December 2-3, 2007 Egum to Kitava
I was supposed to dive in the morning today, but the trip was aborted by a storm that quickly swept in at about 4 in the morning. I was deck sleeping, along with several others on the bow, and was woken up by lighting. It wasn’t but 15 minutes later, when everyone was up and the rain was pouring down and lighting was snapping right near the ship. We raised the boat, took everything off the line, stowed dive gear…we were such a team. I guess we’re getting plenty of experience in rough conditions these days.
And it was a Sunday and we still woke up at 7 am! What happened to the days of no wake up and no annoying bell on Sundays? It’s rush rush rush around here and I don’t like it! And to top it off I woke up feeling sick again! Yuck! I was on the 4-8 watch and was able to sleep during the morning and missed out on getting the ship ready to set sail. My watch went ok, John taught James, Carol, and I sea chanties. It was an easy going 30 miles to Kitava, and we got there mid morning on Monday.
The anchorage is so picture perfect. There is a small island off Kitava that is our study site, and it is so beautiful. I can’t wait to have a bonfire, sun bathe, and chill out with some drinks on the white sand beach that contrasts brilliantly with the turquoise blue water right up to the shore.
December 4-5, 2007 Kitava, PNG
Diving on the reef has shown that it’s in pretty bad shape, with lots of algae, and not so much reef fish. It is a beautiful setting with a small white sand beach with tall palm trees, and turquoise crystal clear water. Training as scientific coordinator with Orla for the Kitava study is going ok, I just don’t like having to boss my friends around and tell them what they’re going to do.
For the past two afternoon/evenings I have been in charge of the ship when the officers spend time on the island having a hippy council, to try to have more unity and start a new beginning and other b.s. really. It was awesome for it just to be the volunteers on the boat though. Glad they could give us that trust. As soon as the dinghy left the music came on the speakers, everyone was happy and chilled out, and the jobs still got done. Basically it was great to have a little freedom and feel good where everyone gets along, and volunteers respect and listen to me as someone in charge.
December 6-8, 2007 Kitava, PNG
The 6th was the first day of the science study. On my first dive, I was so eager to get started that I ended up transversing the whole reef when we were supposed to just do one small section. We can still use data, but I felt like an idiot, as I’m supposed to be setting the example. Grrr! The rest of the past few days have been spent training the newbies with vitareef codes and helping them identify different corals. I think they’re really interested and understanding it.
We had a hippy council all together with Gigi one night. The council is where you pass around a talking piece and are able to talk when you have it as to not interrupt anyone. Nothing really got solved at the council and the volunteers never figured out what went on with the officers on the island on those nights, so a pointless, ‘special,’ b.s., waste of time really. We’ve been able to have several movie nights in the past few days on the big screen, just last night I picked a horrible flick though and people were giving me a hard time for it.
Finally it was our turn to go into shore and have a fire one afternoon. We were drinking jungle juice with the locals boys that sold it to us and playing cards. It started to sprinkle and we packed it up and headed home. The jungle juice tasted gross, like sour coffee with yeast, and my stomach was telling me the next day that that wasn’t a good idea. Ok to drink with the locals, but you could definitely tell they were 15 year old boys, if you know what I mean. Finally a real weekend though. Ahhhh….the first one in forever it feels like. We will have an actual Sunday tomorrow and be able to sleep in late. Mid-day, I want to take a walk on the main island to the village, before I have to cook Sunday night dinner with Kris.
December 9-11 Kitava, PNG
Wow, so much has happened in just a few days. I cooked a great beef roast on Sunday night and we actually got to do the walk into the village. I had my beef simmering all day. A small boy named Jet gave us the grand tour of several villages on Kitava. As soon as we got into this main village, a man named Pati, that had been out to the boat a few times, joined us. I wanted to go in and see a church service, but when we got there it was break time. A beautiful scene really. Groups of the women and their children running around them, the men, and the old men. They were all sitting under trees, eating, chilling out in the shade for the afternoon. We went over and sat with Jet’s dad, in the older man circle. As soon as we arrived, a mat was laid down, coconuts were prepared for us, and all the little kids ran up and gathered around their grandpas’. Jet’s dad was very helpful and friendly, he had met some of our crew early in the week. Jet and Pati took us on a long walk on the path up through 3 more villages. Their houses are so roughin it here. Just one little path through the village, and palm thatched huts on stilts. It was a great day though, so nice just to walk and get some exercise. Well after we got back to the first village, and were really pressed for time, Pati stopped and wanted to show us his house. Turns out his wife had prepared all this food for us, so we sat down and ate fish, yam, and pumpkin. So unnecessary as it was 4 in the afternoon and Kris and I had to rush back and cook dinner for everyone on the ship, but so thoughtful and friendly. We all decided that we should invite Pati to dinner, as he really gave us the all-star treatment all day. I figured it was fine. I was cooking, and the guys could entertain him, give him the tour, you know. He came for dinner with a friend, and it was great to be able to give him something back.
Well, well, well….the shit really hit the fan with the little stunt I pulled on Sunday night. Those weren’t the exact words Michel said, but pretty much the gist of it. He was so rude during the morning meeting to all of us. I stepped up and took the blame, so it was pretty much just directed at me. His big ‘issue’ was that the politics of the whole village were askew now because we just invited a random guy to the ship without the consent of the all-knowing Michel, and now the chief, and all these other people that he’s met in the village will be jealous because Pati came to dinner on the ship and they didn’t. Give me a break, really. It’s not a big deal, that thought didn’t even cross my mind. I was just trying to return the guy a favor. Michel has such a big ego trip with these island people, I don’t want to invite anyone to the ship anymore, for fear of messing up his ‘relations.’ It’s really quite a crock.
Anyways, I could go on and on with the above, but I’ll keep it short and sweet. The past two days were supposed to be intense science studying, but they really haven’t been. The first day, most of our science crew was feeling sick after lunch, so the dive was canceled and we just hung out and rested. They’re still sick from the bug from Hugh and Cynthia. Oh those two left that morning, by the way. The next day, the afternoon dive was again aborted as the current was whipping at about 4 knots, and we tried to dive, but it was too crazy, grabbing onto dead coral, just to not get swept away. I went up quickly, but the others wanted to dive a few minutes, just since we were there. Max was down there, normal Max, totally oblivious to his environment, he was grabbing and struggling to hold on, and had his whole body clinging onto a huge live coral. Seriously, there have been several occasions lately, where I’m wondering if the kid’s dealing with a full deck. The day before, he was on the stern, and an old man fell over in his canoe and he just jumped in the water after him in the same intense current that you can’t even swim against. He just doesn’t think really, not too much of a social life or life skills for that one.
I’ve been able to do 2 dives a day though, for the past few days. It’s great, that’s what I really came for, to get seriously into the coral reef study. I’m doing ok running the science dives and scheduling with Orla too. It’s a lot to make everyone happy. I try my best and still there are some people that aren’t happy. I guess you’d expect that really. We’re getting the vita-reef going, and the GPS track is going out tomorrow. Transects later in the week, hopefully a real weekend again, and then onto the Solomon Islands on Tuesday. I know Tuesday! Exciting! I guess we will be in Gizo possibly for Christmas and definitely for New Years! Yeah! Beers at a bar for new years…how exciting to be back in civilization once again!
December 12-13, 2007 Kitava, PNG Science study
I have to start with Max and his out of control antics lately. He’s just a boy that has never had any discipline or life skills before. We’re not his parents and can’t punish him for his wrong actions. Just explaining to him his stupid mistakes isn’t working, it just goes in one ear and out the other. So, the latest examples of Max’s overexcitement/stupidity moments have been: trying to swim after a tipped over canoe in a 5 knot ripping current from the stern of the ship, flipping out in bad weather while tending a science dive, grabbing onto live coral on a science dive (twice!), and jumping off the bow of the ship and getting drug along with the current to the stern of the ship, when the yellow boat is on the shore, and we had just raised the other dinghy onto the ship. Where is this kid’s common sense?! Today we had to abort our science transect dive, as he wasn’t listening to the officers in charge when he was tending, and a storm was closing in around us. I for one was pretty pissed as I really want to get this science study completed, and it feels like there are all these obstacles we have to overcome before we can finish it.
After the crap dive, we had several meetings and from all of it, we are giving Max until the Solomons to change his attitude and to stop risking his life and the life of everyone else on board. We’ll see what happens. It’s recently been every freakin day that the kid has done something stupid off a whim, and not even thought about it before just going for it. The 2 extra seconds he could spend thinking, would really save everyone, including himself, a lot less hassle in the end.
Yesterday was a good day for science though. We finished both the shallow and the deep vitareef data collection and the GPS track. Everyone was happy about the day and things were going good. Clemintine was sick and laid around all day watching movies, and Max complained because he had to dive twice and cook lunch. So he showed his resentment by bitchin and doing his galley cleanup half-ass. Piss poor really. Other than that, we all really worked as a team.
So the weekend might be cut a bit short, to finish up the transect dives and the immersive media track, but that’s ok. I seriously hope Max changes his outlook and attitude so life will be a little easier/calmer on board.
December 15, 2007 Kitava, PNG Science study cont.
Another crazy day of this science study we are desperately trying to finish here in Kitava. The current around this small island, is just so tricky to predict. We’ve been trying our best, but every time we’ve tried, we get shut out. This morning we tried a transect dive at 9:30 and the current was way too strong. Gave it a break, and I was able to scout out a different site with Orla and Zack after lunch. We positioned the buoys and then went back and picked up the 6 divers and all our crap. One transect finally worked out great, the current was still a little strong, but manageable. I am going to be beefing up my coral identification skills with Heather on these transect studies. Glad to see that finally get carried out…only 3 more to go. Such a tiring day though, diving in current like that (twice!), and then we got back just in time for clean up of the ship. And my day wasn’t even over yet, I had to meet with Heather about the coral identification data that we collected and then talk with Orla about planning the next day. After a couple hours of break, it was open table formal dinner! Grrr! I’m going to sleep well tonight that’s for sure. James and I were talking this afternoon about how we’re all so tired all the time, but we don’t ever really do anything that’s so pressing. We’re living on a freakin ship, how more laid back can you get? Right? Yeah, well not really on this ship with all these crazies and their dynamic way of life. The open table tonight went as usual, the officers went round and round attempting to prove their point and it got dull after a good 15 minutes. I once again tried to make the point that we should actually do something together (like play cards) instead of just talking to one another. Didn’t totally get shut out, but doubt anything will happen. Sorry so negative, really tired tonight.
December 16, 2007 Kitava, PNG
This morning at 8:30 we had an emergency man over board drill (Kris and John mentioned that we should have one at the open table last night, but no one thought it would happen the next morning!). Everyone was cool calm and collected, we successfully retrieved the lifejacket. We lowered the small boat, delivered oxygen, used the backboard and everything in 26 minutes. Pretty good if you ask me.
The drill sufficed as acting class, so after that , a few of us went out scouting for another transect site without too much current. I had to deal with Heather, who always makes everything a huge ordeal. We did manage to get the site setup with a strong surface current, but a calmer current at depth. I’m getting better at my advanced coral id with Heather’s help. There are really so many different kinds of corals, and then the same coral can come in different forms, it gets kind of confusing
Good day though, glad to get another transect done though. 2 more to go. It’s just such a long dive (at least an hour) and its real tiring swimming against a current the whole time. Def losing weight. In the afternoon today I felt weak and sick. I think it was because I didn’t have anything to eat all day with any substance, just bread products really. I made an egg sandwich and felt a lot better. Tired again tonight. Tomorrow is a real Sunday again, with no jobs and no agenda. I might go in and lay on the beach on the small island, but then again I might just relax and sleep the day away.
December 17-19, 2007 Kitava, PNG
I did finally get a chance to really relax and lay on the beach on Sunday. I had to tend a couple people on a fun dive and deal with Max’s normal b.s., then it was snorkeling in crystal clear water and sun bathing in perfect white sand. In the afternoon, I finally finished watching the movie, Bowling for Columbine. I kept getting halfway through and the ship’s DVDs would be all scratched. Interesting movie about the gun culture of America, some propaganda, but still interesting. Oh Zack and Max now have boils on their bodies, which is really gross. I will freak out if I get one. People have had them in the past and they just look so painful.
Sunday night was the best Sunday night thus far. Everyone was in a cheery mood, even during toasting. Zack said one of my Jimmy Buffet quotes and I couldn’t stop laughing. Changes in Latitudes, changes in attitudes! It was hilarious to hear it coming from someone other than me! Can’t even remember what we ate for dinner that night, but the atmosphere was exceptional. There was a skit about the science study and Max ‘porites climbing.’ Then Zack, James, and I waited until most people were done with their speeches, and we did a skit ourselves about ‘Super Kitty,’ since her birthday was on Sunday. It was really fun and everyone was cracking up. We rewrote the words to the A-team theme song, and had a few different situations of when you’re in trouble and you have no one else to call….call Super Kitty! I was a ripping sail and Kitty (Zack) came to fix it, then I was sad and hungry, she gave me yogurt, and then we lost our way and she GPS-ed us back on track. After all that we weren’t going to give speeches, but I wanted to say a few things about the Bowling for Columbine movie, so I gave a mini speech. Then Zack and James both felt they had to give mini speeches too.
The next day, Monday, we completed the science study! I finished running my first science study! Great to feel that sense of accomplishment. We did 2 transects and just stuck it out through the ripping current. It wasn’t impossible current to work with, I just got a little dinged and banged up, bumping into the coral. At one point when we first went down and the surface current was kicking, I was so out of breath, I could tell I was beet red and sweating underwater! So great to be done with those transects though. I was so exhausted after 2 transects, spending about 2 hours underwater. Doing back to back transects like that, I’m really getting to know new corals and get them down. Now if only I can remember the new corals for the next science study in the Solomons.
Tuesday was a ship shaping day, and a get the boat ready for departure to the Solomons kind of day. I was in the galley, cooking, from 6 am until about 7 pm. Taking a few breaks, but I produced all day, and then made the meat portion of dinner since the vegetarians were cooking. I boiled, marinated, and baked some ribs for dinner and grilled up some fresh tuna for dinner. Another exhausting day, being stuck in the galley this time. I did some thorough cleaning and stocking up in the galley. I did make one major mistake while I was so busy making delicious food. The fan to the stove chimney wasn’t on all day, (because people we vacuuming and I couldn’t hear that it was on) and so soot built up and flew out all over the deck, a huge mess. Not the end of the world though, as Heather soon made it out to be. That night/evening I set up a game night on the forward deck, outside. It was a perfect evening. Everyone had a blast, and we all really got along. I finally made it happen after suggesting it during so many ‘open tables.’ I strung up rope lights between the shrouds, and had a bright light hanging from the mast for the stage area. We played Pictionary with the white board and then charades after that. We split into two (mixed officer and volunteer) teams, and really had a fun time. Everyone was laughing and commenting on how fun it was, except…surprise, surprise, our captain Michel. The one who’s supposed to hold us all together. I don’t know what his deal was, but he was such an asshole. He didn’t ruin the night, but definitely brought the energy down. At first it was fine, he played the games, then we all wanted to play charades and he just picked up a deck of cards and started playing solitare with his back to the action. What a jerk! It’s like, well if the attention isn’t on me, then I don’t care and don’t want anything to do with it. How old are you? Oh and the icing to the cake, was the other day when he said that ‘us’ not coming to lab with effect the way we act in an emergency together. What a load of B.S.! Like working as a team and building our bond as a group (playing games together), is petty compared to sitting in a circle uncomfortably in silence with a group of people of whom most don’t even want to be there! Grrrr! Whatever, his lost.
After the group games, the plan was to split into small groups and learn new games together like cribbage, mancala, bridge, chess. It was already 9:30 by the time we were done with the group stuff, and everyone was tired, so only a few stayed a bit and played cribbage, gin rummy, and mancala. Great night though, all in all. Glad I could do that for our group.
Wednesday, today, we spent all morning preparing to leave, and we made it out of Kitava at about 11 am. I did so many little jobs, fixing up stuff for the voyage, I was tired by the time we left. I was able to sleep a couple hours uninterrupted which was nice. The trip to Gizo in the Solomon Islands is 350 miles and will take us approximately 5 days. I hope to get there before Christmas. It would be great not to be on watch on Christmas. Speaking of watches, I got a really good one (for possibly my last real long watch). I’m with Zack, Heather, and Nicole on the 8-12. Hope it’s a good one. Again, as usual, I’m looking forward to getting there and being back in touch with home again.
December 20-21, 2007 En route to Gizo, Solomon Islands
So it’s been grueling traveling at a snail’s pace, trying to sail with no wind. One watch actually went 1 mile in 4 hours! The agony! Ahhh! We’ve now wasted 2 days putting around with the volunteers getting anxious and annoyed. This morning we finally decided to put the engine on and motor right into the wind (the direction we were trying to sail). I for one had a horribly boring day until I discovered Kris’s Ipod. Turns out we’re not so different after all. There is an Ipod option to delete all your music and copies someone else’s onto your Ipod, well I would actually do that our taste in music is so similar. Country, reggae, hippy music, old rock, it really made my day to hear some good music I haven’t heard in forever. She actually was a groupie back in college, for a few bands that I love.
During this voyage there has been new officers in training running watches. That is Zack, John, and Kris. I am strictly scientific coordinator, screw that mate stuff, being in charge and bossing everyone around to do stuff that you could do in 2 seconds yourself. The plan is that we will make it to Solomons by Christmas Eve, which is great news. And also the first 2 wks of the New Year in the Solomons will be ships work in morning and then time off in afternoon. I have lots to handle and get organized to finish the Kitava science study once we get to Gizo. James will be leaving and 2 new volunteers arrive in January along with Paul who comes for a month.
Tonight we had a solitice party, give me a break, seriously who celebrates the solitice? It was an ok event. Another ‘party’ atmosphere from the Infinity crew. We basically sat on the stern had a few drinks at sunset, ate snaky foods for dinner, and listened to South Pacific music followed by obnoxious whale songs made by Michel. Good to have a break for a bit though and relax all together. I am relieved to know that we will actually have Christmas and New Years in Gizo though, and not putting around out here at sea.
December 22-24, 2007 Still en route to Solomons
The wind has actually started to come. Well with rain and storms too. We have actually been slowly sailing along in the right direction believe it or not. Nice to be gaining some head way to get to Gizo (Solomon Island port) instead of just drifting out here between PNG and Solomons.
Can’t believe this short little trip lasted a week at sea! What a joke! We could have done 350 miles in 4 days. Instead we b.s.-ed around drifting and shutting the engine off for quiet time, dinners, and freakin tea time. Sorry so negative at the moment, but I’m just annoyed to the max with most of the crew members on board at the moment. I need a break from this ship for a day or two. It’s Christmas Eve and I definitely don’t feel in the Christmas mood.
Oh! We had the worst/most uncomfortable Sunday night dinner in existence! Max worked all afternoon to talk about boils and staff infections, researched them and everything. He was so excited, stood up to give his speech second and totally got shut down by Michel, Gaie, and especially Laser. Laser was such a douche! He basically told Max his material wasn’t speech worthy and he had to do his talk on a Tuesday night. John spoke up and said well he’s just speaking what’s on his mind. Again John gets shut down by the Laser too. He’s such a dick. He totally turned the mood around and I had to muster up some strength to give my speech when all I wanted to do was burst into tears. Oh and not to mention that only 2 Sundays ago, Kris spoke about pilot whales that she researched for a good 20 minutes.
We’ve finally arrived in Gizo though. It’s Christmas Eve and we’re anchored in Gizo harbor and we’re even going to get to go into town today too. How exicting! It feels like forever since I’ve been in a town.
Last night PCRF showed their canoe festival film at the Napatana Lodge. Really good, but long. The crowd was getting restless, that’s for sure. It was a nice night though. It was Arie’s last night and he was staying at the hotel, so it was good to be able to send him off and take a nice hot shower again.
Today was a rainy day. I was on the food crew, first storing dry food down below, and then going to the market for fresh food with Max again. After lunch, it was still pouring down rain, and we had to go to the market. So I was stuck in the market with freakin annoying Max once again. I tried to not let him get to me so much this time. Ya that didn’t happen, he was still obnoxious. That was an hour of food shopping with Max, and then it was 4, time to meet the boat, and no boat. The plan was for us to be picked up with the dinghy with our huge load of food at the market dock. Well the dinghy never showed up. Really down pouring and getting soaked waiting around sucked. I waited an hour and a half, while Max waited a half an hour. Ridiculous Max as usual. “I’m taking a taxi back.” Totally ditched me with this huge load of food, by myself on this wharf dock in the rain, with these men hanging out drinking beers. I went and talked to a couple waiting by a boat, and when the lady said it wasn’t safe to be here by myself, I high tailed it out of there. I had them watch my stuff and I went up the road and got a taxi. Loaded all my stuff up and took a taxi back to the ship.
I was raging pissed by the time I got back to the dock. It turns out, they didn’t forget about us. James was coming over in the dinghy to pick us up and he hit something. The engine came off the dinghy and sunk! It literally came off it’s bolts. He must have hit something pretty good. He was ok, just fell into the boat, because he had the safety cord on his leg. Of course, there was an accident sequence on board when I made it back to the ship. I was just so pissed at Max though, I couldn’t even focus on what had happened with the engine. I can’t believe he just left me sitting there in the rain with all the stuff, just like here figure it out and try not to get raped. What a jerk. Common sense would have told you, umm maybe I shouldn’t leave a girl alone here when it’s about to get dark. What’s done is done though, he’s never going to learn. Just an idiot with no real life skills, and he doesn’t want to learn any either. No apology when we got back to the boat, and he knew I was pissed. Absolutely annoyed and hating him at the moment. Keeping my distance for now, but I had a talk with Orla, that it’s just a test of what I can handle, and you can’t let him get to you. I’ll def be working on that.
November 23-28, 2007 Ferguson Island, PNG
Wow! So much has happened in the past few days, it feels like a world away. I’ll do my best to recap. To start, after losing the engine and not being able to dive for it, the next day, 2 brand new yamaha engines were bought and brought straight to the boat. Crazy really, having Gaie and Laser on board, things really get done ASAP. Also the next day, Orla, Heather, Max and I had a talk on the bow about how it was wrong for him to leave me in the market and other things. Turns out that he really still blames PCRF for the accident, and how he almost died, and blah, blah, blah. The kid really isn’t equipped with any life experiences. If he can’t handle it, he should leave. I think some of the talk got through to him, hopefully.
Have I mentioned the new crew on board? Pretty nuts for sure. Cynthia and Hugh are from New Mexico. They’re nice, super hippy, but still nice to have around. Hugh is really easy to chat with, and wants to be absorbed in the culture of the youth on board. Ha! Pretty ridic. Cynthia is a practicing Buddhist monk, so everything is beautiful, she has her own mediations on the bow, and she insists on lighting incense everywhere. Gigi is older, in her late fifties, has a killer body for an older lady. Yep, that’s about her only positive attribute. She lives on this park called Three Rivers and takes people on soul searching trips there. She has tried to communicate with dolphins and whales for 2 yrs with the help of a child, a musician, and an artist. Yes, she is that weird, nice but yeah anyone who actually believes they can communicate with dolphins, like she can feel what they feel….ummm. Clementine has slept for about 3 of the 4 days she has been on board now. Quirky and wiry when she is awake though. Really trying hard to be accepted I think. She doesn’t speak English too well, and she sleeps with a pacifier. Ya no clue about that one. Kristina and John are pretty cool. Glad their American and like to play cards. We’ve started to play cribbage now, remember why I hated that game, way too much thinking involved. They really deal with the same frustrations all the volunteers deal with on board, which is good to hear it’s not just us.
Well now that’s out of the way…we had a beautiful full moon sail with good wind out of Alotau and onto Ferguson Island/ Dobu where our sailing canoe friends are. Now that we’re here again, its really great to see all the familiar faces again. I’ve really become attached to some of the beauitful kids here. They still all come to the boat and just hang out with us, watching our every move. We’ve been here three days, and have had a great time with everyone. Zack and I are really feeling like we’ve gone back to Somosomo in Fiji again. Yesterday James, Zack, Max, and I had one of the canoe captains, Kevin, take us on a walk to the hot springs that were supposedly 20 min away. Zack had to cook a Sunday night dinner that night with Orla and Michel and they were absolutely furious when we came back an hour and a half late, since it was like an hour hike there and an hour back. The hot springs were amazing, it felt like entering another land. The ground was literally bubbling underneath our feet. Our guides were insistent that we follow their footsteps, as the ground wasn’t so good there. There were holes in the rock that were spewing with boiling water. People go there to wash clothes, cook, and for suicide! Pretty nuts, they were saying back in the old days, when cannibalism was still around, they would bring bodies to the hot springs and boil them so they could be eaten. There was one area that was cool enough to swim/bathe really. So nice to be in hot water again. We shampooed and wished we had wine in our hot spring bathtub. Max was of course, loving it. Saying this was the coolest thing he’s ever done in his life. Yeah def not the coolest, for me, but it’s Max, you can see his little bubble of experiences getting bigger every day. The other day he baked for the first time by himself (banana bread), the boy is 18 for christ sake. Back to the hike, it was a great Sunday afternoon although we were all dreading having to go back and have Sunday speeches. They last about 2 hours with 18 people! We had a whole mob of little kids trailing behind us the whole time, giggling and laughing as we walked. I learned a little of the local language on the way. Most of the walk was a worn out path lined with flowers, palm trees, banana trees, and groups of small huts. The little kids and sometimes their parents would run out of their huts, just to see the dim-dims (white people) walking by. Good afternoon is ‘Asi nua nua bobo ana.’ Good night is ‘Asi bouy bouy bobo ana.’ And thank you is ‘Ky-ownie.’ What a great afternoon though, I’m really thankful that we got a chance to go and do that in the few days we were back at Ferguson Island.
Festival!
The next two days were a whirlwind of mini-festival put on by the locals for us. I guess they had it planned while we were gone for past month. It was such a unique experience. Not touristy like the last festival in Vanuatu, because it was only ‘us’ there. It was put on to celebrate the EPOI canoes and the paddlers that came to the festival in Alotau. Michel got to show his film from the event too. The villagers loved it, since most of them have never been to the canoe festival, let alone Alotau. All four EPOI canoes paddled out to the boat to take us in on the first day. I got on one by myself with the locals and paddled in with them. I was a horrible paddler compared to them! I kept whacking the guy behind me and screwing everyone else up. I did finally get it, but I had to look down at my paddle the whole time, I couldn’t even see where we were going. Once we got to shore, we were all told to huddle at this side of the beach. Men came out in native clothes (as in leaves, covering their areas) and painted faces with wood spears, charging right for us! Some people in our group were legitimately scared (like our new guests). I couldn’t help but laugh as I knew they weren’t serious, they were just acting out how it would have been in the past. The crowd of locals gathered all around us were cracking up, they loved it. After we were all introduced to the chief and seated, some of the small kids stood in a line in front of us, in grass skirts and leaves in their hair, with kula necklaces strung down their backs. Really beautiful scene. An older lady demonstrated how fire was made and how to cook yams in clay pots with a few of the kids helping. Again, beautiful little kids, they were just hammin it up too. I snapped some great pics.
After that demonstration, we were lead to another area of the small village to rest and have some fresh fruit and coconuts they had prepared for us. Well we all went over there, like a herd of cattle, and Michel began to do his silly little interviews with the locals. Kristina, Max, James, and I had a bite to eat, but proceeded to go play with the little kids that had gathered nearby on a dirt patch and a small grassy field. The boys started up a game of soccer with the small boys, and Kris and I played Duck, Duck, Goose with all the little girls and a few boys too. Not sure if they really understood how to play, I had a couple of the older girls explain the game to them, but they still loved it. I definitely have a few favorite kids. I found out later that there is a few kids with parents from the Solomon Islands and the Trobrinand Islands, so those mixes must have infiltrated in. After the games and our boys chewing beetle nut with the guys, we headed back to the boat in the late afternoon. I thought it was going to be a relaxing day in the village, but it was anything but. I was so exhausted. Watched a movie on the bow with Kristina and Nicole under the stars, but we all fell asleep mid-movie.
The next day we had another lazy morning on board the ship, and I had to help cook lunch so I was stuck on board. I did go in to the village in the afternoon for the exchange that was going on. The exchange is usually between 2 villages in thanks. Well we performed an exchange with the village that put on the event for us. It was really great. We gave a meager pile of ‘stuff.’ Rice, clothes, soaps, sugar, an old sail, etc. In exchange we received a huge load of fresh food. Papayas, pineapples, star fruit, taro, yams, pumpkins, bananas, sweet potatoes, watermelons, limes, baskets….and the list goes on! It was amazing how much food they gave us, I hope they still have some for themselves. The ceremony was touching. They started by laying out 2 mats, and then put a little pile of food on it. Then a crowd of the canoe guys we knew started singing and about 6 large families lined up and kept distributing food into the pile. The mound was huge! We didn’t lie out our pile so gracefully, but we set out loot down and sang the fatele for them and this almost yodeling song Gigi taught us about the ‘dolphin tribe.’ b.s. really. But the all the little kids liked it though; they were all singing it later that evening. After the exchange, a large group of us went back to the ship, but I decided to stay for the showing of the canoe festival film we had made. I guess they showed it last night too, but some people missed it, so we watched it again. I just kept thinking that this is probably their one movie of the year and the whole village came out for the event. At home I almost watch a new movie every week, either renting them or going to the theater. We set up James’s white bed sheet and our projector, and a crowd of at least a hundred all sat down ready to watch the film. They loved it, during the EPOI racing they could name all the different canoes, and they were really cheering them on like it would help them win. Great to see them enjoying it so much. I was really pushing myself to stay so long in the village though, so tired again. Came back and crashed out. The boys were drinking jungle juice (jj) on the stern with some local villagers. I didn’t try any. Zack made it, and it’s basically drinking liquid bread dough. Gross.
November 29-30, 2007 Ferguson to Egum
The next morning was a sad goodbye to our friends on Ferguson. They all paddled out to the boat in their canoes to send us off. It was only a 70 mi sail to Egum atoll of the coast of Ferguson Island, but of course, it took us overnight and by the middle of the next day the decision was made that we should put the engine on. I mean I do like sailing and all, but budging along at two knots for 24 hours kind of sucks. The night of our sail, a Wednesday night, everyone that didn’t have a watch decided to watch a movie on the big screen very loudly. It was so rude to all of us that had to wake up in the middle of the night to take care of the ship. I didn’t get too much sleep before my watch when I had to wake up at midnight and stay awake until 4. It was Gaie, Laser, Gigi, Cynthia, Hugh. It was as if they didn’t even care that we were trying to sleep. James even came up the stairs and asked them to keep it down, of course without any response from anyone. Just piss poor really.
We did finally arrive to Egum and it is really beautiful. There is one small stretch of island and then a few small out croppings of islands in the distance and that is it here. We are anchored on the rim of a sunken volcano that has filled in with coral heads over time. It was a pretty dodgy channel to get into this anchorage. We maneuvered around several coral heads and got close to our max bottom depth (which we never come close to). You can see the bottom at 30 ft here, crystal clear blue. Paradise really. I caught a cold for the past two days and haven’t been able to dive, so I’ve just snorkeled around the boat a bit. Still pretty, lots of fish schooling over the coral heads. I think I picked up my cold from Cynthia and Gigi who had caught a cold from traveling. It sucked though, I was so clogged up and I couldn’t even nap the days away. I couldn’t get to sleep. I got through it though and I feel loads better a few days later. I’m proud of myself though, I only took Tylenol once and other than that I just laid low, drank water, and took vitamins.
Since we’ve been in Egum we’ve done a few seriously hippy events. First off, Cynthia has been involved in united 13 indigenous grandmothers from around the world to come together live on t.v. in India, to meet with this conference called Bioneers in California. She made a film and everything about this ‘space bridge’ she created, and how the grandmothers can heal the world’s suffering through prayer. At first the conference, Bioneers sounded at least like a cool idea. It was explained as people from all walks of life come together (scientists, teachers, researchers) and spend a week liberally coming up with solutions to the world’s problems. Well what we got from the film, it’s a bunch of crazy hippies, not really solving anything at all. It was really out there, totally turned me off to the idea. Later Kris, said the conference is really cool, and what was shown on the film is just an hour of two of the week.
Well there was the film that everyone loved and was so proud of. Then there is the Earth treasure vase that we’ve been carrying around for four years on board. You might remember me mentioning it back in Fiji. The vase is Cynthia’s. She gave it to us from some monk that she got it from in Tibet. Vases are placed all over the world to help heal the Earth. Yeah, give me a break. But anyways, it was a whole ordeal with this vase. We sealed it up and put it in a cave underwater in Egum and buried it in with rocks. People were seriously crying and mourning over finally parting with the vase. Again, crazy hippy shit. But whatever, it goes on, on board so I have to sort of be a part of it, whether I like it or not.
We did have an amazing lobster dinner on board. Finally! It was sooo good. Heather grilled them on the stove with garlic and butter. Yumm! We trade 12 lobsters with the locals for rice and sugar. They were pretty small, but still delicious. I cleaned them like a pro. One had eggs which I had to clean off, which I hated to do, but it was dead already. I have been snorkeling around the boat, but haven’t seen any lobsters. We really haven’t had the chance to scout out the area here though, and hunt for lobsters, so much emphasis has been put on that freakin vase. After dinner that night we had an intense open table. Where things really got said, even by the visitors on board. It was refreshing really to let everything out. The whole ‘us/them’ idea was mentioned. How the officers are hypocritical about things, how we are treated like staff, you know…the same old, same old. But it went ok. Laser only flared up once and called Max ‘a little shit.’ Hugh didn’t appreciate the unnecessary name calling and put Laser in his place about it. It was also said by the visitors, that no wonder we have issues communicating with the officers as they are all so overbearing and not willing to listen to the issues.
December 1, 2007 Egum
It’s finally December! Wow, I can’t believe it’s supposed to be winter. I’m feeling a lot better today, than the past couple days. This morning we had acting class, which went ok. Of course Max and Clemintine fought it all the way. I was supposed to help Clemintine cook breakfast and lunch today, but she said, “Ok well I did breakfast and you do lunch.” Umm no! I don’t think so. Especially when you have to cook lunch after acting class, when everyone is starving and lunch is usually an hour late. I recruited new help in the form of James and Heather. Whipped up some baked potato chunks, fried chicken, and my oriental coleslaw.
In the afternoon, a group of us went into the village to play a volleyball tournament against the locals. The village was so picturesque. Perfect white powdery sand beach, thatched huts built up on stilts right near the water, and people everywhere living an ultra simple life.
December 2-3, 2007 Egum to Kitava
I was supposed to dive in the morning today, but the trip was aborted by a storm that quickly swept in at about 4 in the morning. I was deck sleeping, along with several others on the bow, and was woken up by lighting. It wasn’t but 15 minutes later, when everyone was up and the rain was pouring down and lighting was snapping right near the ship. We raised the boat, took everything off the line, stowed dive gear…we were such a team. I guess we’re getting plenty of experience in rough conditions these days.
And it was a Sunday and we still woke up at 7 am! What happened to the days of no wake up and no annoying bell on Sundays? It’s rush rush rush around here and I don’t like it! And to top it off I woke up feeling sick again! Yuck! I was on the 4-8 watch and was able to sleep during the morning and missed out on getting the ship ready to set sail. My watch went ok, John taught James, Carol, and I sea chanties. It was an easy going 30 miles to Kitava, and we got there mid morning on Monday.
The anchorage is so picture perfect. There is a small island off Kitava that is our study site, and it is so beautiful. I can’t wait to have a bonfire, sun bathe, and chill out with some drinks on the white sand beach that contrasts brilliantly with the turquoise blue water right up to the shore.
December 4-5, 2007 Kitava, PNG
Diving on the reef has shown that it’s in pretty bad shape, with lots of algae, and not so much reef fish. It is a beautiful setting with a small white sand beach with tall palm trees, and turquoise crystal clear water. Training as scientific coordinator with Orla for the Kitava study is going ok, I just don’t like having to boss my friends around and tell them what they’re going to do.
For the past two afternoon/evenings I have been in charge of the ship when the officers spend time on the island having a hippy council, to try to have more unity and start a new beginning and other b.s. really. It was awesome for it just to be the volunteers on the boat though. Glad they could give us that trust. As soon as the dinghy left the music came on the speakers, everyone was happy and chilled out, and the jobs still got done. Basically it was great to have a little freedom and feel good where everyone gets along, and volunteers respect and listen to me as someone in charge.
December 6-8, 2007 Kitava, PNG
The 6th was the first day of the science study. On my first dive, I was so eager to get started that I ended up transversing the whole reef when we were supposed to just do one small section. We can still use data, but I felt like an idiot, as I’m supposed to be setting the example. Grrr! The rest of the past few days have been spent training the newbies with vitareef codes and helping them identify different corals. I think they’re really interested and understanding it.
We had a hippy council all together with Gigi one night. The council is where you pass around a talking piece and are able to talk when you have it as to not interrupt anyone. Nothing really got solved at the council and the volunteers never figured out what went on with the officers on the island on those nights, so a pointless, ‘special,’ b.s., waste of time really. We’ve been able to have several movie nights in the past few days on the big screen, just last night I picked a horrible flick though and people were giving me a hard time for it.
Finally it was our turn to go into shore and have a fire one afternoon. We were drinking jungle juice with the locals boys that sold it to us and playing cards. It started to sprinkle and we packed it up and headed home. The jungle juice tasted gross, like sour coffee with yeast, and my stomach was telling me the next day that that wasn’t a good idea. Ok to drink with the locals, but you could definitely tell they were 15 year old boys, if you know what I mean. Finally a real weekend though. Ahhhh….the first one in forever it feels like. We will have an actual Sunday tomorrow and be able to sleep in late. Mid-day, I want to take a walk on the main island to the village, before I have to cook Sunday night dinner with Kris.
December 9-11 Kitava, PNG
Wow, so much has happened in just a few days. I cooked a great beef roast on Sunday night and we actually got to do the walk into the village. I had my beef simmering all day. A small boy named Jet gave us the grand tour of several villages on Kitava. As soon as we got into this main village, a man named Pati, that had been out to the boat a few times, joined us. I wanted to go in and see a church service, but when we got there it was break time. A beautiful scene really. Groups of the women and their children running around them, the men, and the old men. They were all sitting under trees, eating, chilling out in the shade for the afternoon. We went over and sat with Jet’s dad, in the older man circle. As soon as we arrived, a mat was laid down, coconuts were prepared for us, and all the little kids ran up and gathered around their grandpas’. Jet’s dad was very helpful and friendly, he had met some of our crew early in the week. Jet and Pati took us on a long walk on the path up through 3 more villages. Their houses are so roughin it here. Just one little path through the village, and palm thatched huts on stilts. It was a great day though, so nice just to walk and get some exercise. Well after we got back to the first village, and were really pressed for time, Pati stopped and wanted to show us his house. Turns out his wife had prepared all this food for us, so we sat down and ate fish, yam, and pumpkin. So unnecessary as it was 4 in the afternoon and Kris and I had to rush back and cook dinner for everyone on the ship, but so thoughtful and friendly. We all decided that we should invite Pati to dinner, as he really gave us the all-star treatment all day. I figured it was fine. I was cooking, and the guys could entertain him, give him the tour, you know. He came for dinner with a friend, and it was great to be able to give him something back.
Well, well, well….the shit really hit the fan with the little stunt I pulled on Sunday night. Those weren’t the exact words Michel said, but pretty much the gist of it. He was so rude during the morning meeting to all of us. I stepped up and took the blame, so it was pretty much just directed at me. His big ‘issue’ was that the politics of the whole village were askew now because we just invited a random guy to the ship without the consent of the all-knowing Michel, and now the chief, and all these other people that he’s met in the village will be jealous because Pati came to dinner on the ship and they didn’t. Give me a break, really. It’s not a big deal, that thought didn’t even cross my mind. I was just trying to return the guy a favor. Michel has such a big ego trip with these island people, I don’t want to invite anyone to the ship anymore, for fear of messing up his ‘relations.’ It’s really quite a crock.
Anyways, I could go on and on with the above, but I’ll keep it short and sweet. The past two days were supposed to be intense science studying, but they really haven’t been. The first day, most of our science crew was feeling sick after lunch, so the dive was canceled and we just hung out and rested. They’re still sick from the bug from Hugh and Cynthia. Oh those two left that morning, by the way. The next day, the afternoon dive was again aborted as the current was whipping at about 4 knots, and we tried to dive, but it was too crazy, grabbing onto dead coral, just to not get swept away. I went up quickly, but the others wanted to dive a few minutes, just since we were there. Max was down there, normal Max, totally oblivious to his environment, he was grabbing and struggling to hold on, and had his whole body clinging onto a huge live coral. Seriously, there have been several occasions lately, where I’m wondering if the kid’s dealing with a full deck. The day before, he was on the stern, and an old man fell over in his canoe and he just jumped in the water after him in the same intense current that you can’t even swim against. He just doesn’t think really, not too much of a social life or life skills for that one.
I’ve been able to do 2 dives a day though, for the past few days. It’s great, that’s what I really came for, to get seriously into the coral reef study. I’m doing ok running the science dives and scheduling with Orla too. It’s a lot to make everyone happy. I try my best and still there are some people that aren’t happy. I guess you’d expect that really. We’re getting the vita-reef going, and the GPS track is going out tomorrow. Transects later in the week, hopefully a real weekend again, and then onto the Solomon Islands on Tuesday. I know Tuesday! Exciting! I guess we will be in Gizo possibly for Christmas and definitely for New Years! Yeah! Beers at a bar for new years…how exciting to be back in civilization once again!
December 12-13, 2007 Kitava, PNG Science study
I have to start with Max and his out of control antics lately. He’s just a boy that has never had any discipline or life skills before. We’re not his parents and can’t punish him for his wrong actions. Just explaining to him his stupid mistakes isn’t working, it just goes in one ear and out the other. So, the latest examples of Max’s overexcitement/stupidity moments have been: trying to swim after a tipped over canoe in a 5 knot ripping current from the stern of the ship, flipping out in bad weather while tending a science dive, grabbing onto live coral on a science dive (twice!), and jumping off the bow of the ship and getting drug along with the current to the stern of the ship, when the yellow boat is on the shore, and we had just raised the other dinghy onto the ship. Where is this kid’s common sense?! Today we had to abort our science transect dive, as he wasn’t listening to the officers in charge when he was tending, and a storm was closing in around us. I for one was pretty pissed as I really want to get this science study completed, and it feels like there are all these obstacles we have to overcome before we can finish it.
After the crap dive, we had several meetings and from all of it, we are giving Max until the Solomons to change his attitude and to stop risking his life and the life of everyone else on board. We’ll see what happens. It’s recently been every freakin day that the kid has done something stupid off a whim, and not even thought about it before just going for it. The 2 extra seconds he could spend thinking, would really save everyone, including himself, a lot less hassle in the end.
Yesterday was a good day for science though. We finished both the shallow and the deep vitareef data collection and the GPS track. Everyone was happy about the day and things were going good. Clemintine was sick and laid around all day watching movies, and Max complained because he had to dive twice and cook lunch. So he showed his resentment by bitchin and doing his galley cleanup half-ass. Piss poor really. Other than that, we all really worked as a team.
So the weekend might be cut a bit short, to finish up the transect dives and the immersive media track, but that’s ok. I seriously hope Max changes his outlook and attitude so life will be a little easier/calmer on board.
December 15, 2007 Kitava, PNG Science study cont.
Another crazy day of this science study we are desperately trying to finish here in Kitava. The current around this small island, is just so tricky to predict. We’ve been trying our best, but every time we’ve tried, we get shut out. This morning we tried a transect dive at 9:30 and the current was way too strong. Gave it a break, and I was able to scout out a different site with Orla and Zack after lunch. We positioned the buoys and then went back and picked up the 6 divers and all our crap. One transect finally worked out great, the current was still a little strong, but manageable. I am going to be beefing up my coral identification skills with Heather on these transect studies. Glad to see that finally get carried out…only 3 more to go. Such a tiring day though, diving in current like that (twice!), and then we got back just in time for clean up of the ship. And my day wasn’t even over yet, I had to meet with Heather about the coral identification data that we collected and then talk with Orla about planning the next day. After a couple hours of break, it was open table formal dinner! Grrr! I’m going to sleep well tonight that’s for sure. James and I were talking this afternoon about how we’re all so tired all the time, but we don’t ever really do anything that’s so pressing. We’re living on a freakin ship, how more laid back can you get? Right? Yeah, well not really on this ship with all these crazies and their dynamic way of life. The open table tonight went as usual, the officers went round and round attempting to prove their point and it got dull after a good 15 minutes. I once again tried to make the point that we should actually do something together (like play cards) instead of just talking to one another. Didn’t totally get shut out, but doubt anything will happen. Sorry so negative, really tired tonight.
December 16, 2007 Kitava, PNG
This morning at 8:30 we had an emergency man over board drill (Kris and John mentioned that we should have one at the open table last night, but no one thought it would happen the next morning!). Everyone was cool calm and collected, we successfully retrieved the lifejacket. We lowered the small boat, delivered oxygen, used the backboard and everything in 26 minutes. Pretty good if you ask me.
The drill sufficed as acting class, so after that , a few of us went out scouting for another transect site without too much current. I had to deal with Heather, who always makes everything a huge ordeal. We did manage to get the site setup with a strong surface current, but a calmer current at depth. I’m getting better at my advanced coral id with Heather’s help. There are really so many different kinds of corals, and then the same coral can come in different forms, it gets kind of confusing
Good day though, glad to get another transect done though. 2 more to go. It’s just such a long dive (at least an hour) and its real tiring swimming against a current the whole time. Def losing weight. In the afternoon today I felt weak and sick. I think it was because I didn’t have anything to eat all day with any substance, just bread products really. I made an egg sandwich and felt a lot better. Tired again tonight. Tomorrow is a real Sunday again, with no jobs and no agenda. I might go in and lay on the beach on the small island, but then again I might just relax and sleep the day away.
December 17-19, 2007 Kitava, PNG
I did finally get a chance to really relax and lay on the beach on Sunday. I had to tend a couple people on a fun dive and deal with Max’s normal b.s., then it was snorkeling in crystal clear water and sun bathing in perfect white sand. In the afternoon, I finally finished watching the movie, Bowling for Columbine. I kept getting halfway through and the ship’s DVDs would be all scratched. Interesting movie about the gun culture of America, some propaganda, but still interesting. Oh Zack and Max now have boils on their bodies, which is really gross. I will freak out if I get one. People have had them in the past and they just look so painful.
Sunday night was the best Sunday night thus far. Everyone was in a cheery mood, even during toasting. Zack said one of my Jimmy Buffet quotes and I couldn’t stop laughing. Changes in Latitudes, changes in attitudes! It was hilarious to hear it coming from someone other than me! Can’t even remember what we ate for dinner that night, but the atmosphere was exceptional. There was a skit about the science study and Max ‘porites climbing.’ Then Zack, James, and I waited until most people were done with their speeches, and we did a skit ourselves about ‘Super Kitty,’ since her birthday was on Sunday. It was really fun and everyone was cracking up. We rewrote the words to the A-team theme song, and had a few different situations of when you’re in trouble and you have no one else to call….call Super Kitty! I was a ripping sail and Kitty (Zack) came to fix it, then I was sad and hungry, she gave me yogurt, and then we lost our way and she GPS-ed us back on track. After all that we weren’t going to give speeches, but I wanted to say a few things about the Bowling for Columbine movie, so I gave a mini speech. Then Zack and James both felt they had to give mini speeches too.
The next day, Monday, we completed the science study! I finished running my first science study! Great to feel that sense of accomplishment. We did 2 transects and just stuck it out through the ripping current. It wasn’t impossible current to work with, I just got a little dinged and banged up, bumping into the coral. At one point when we first went down and the surface current was kicking, I was so out of breath, I could tell I was beet red and sweating underwater! So great to be done with those transects though. I was so exhausted after 2 transects, spending about 2 hours underwater. Doing back to back transects like that, I’m really getting to know new corals and get them down. Now if only I can remember the new corals for the next science study in the Solomons.
Tuesday was a ship shaping day, and a get the boat ready for departure to the Solomons kind of day. I was in the galley, cooking, from 6 am until about 7 pm. Taking a few breaks, but I produced all day, and then made the meat portion of dinner since the vegetarians were cooking. I boiled, marinated, and baked some ribs for dinner and grilled up some fresh tuna for dinner. Another exhausting day, being stuck in the galley this time. I did some thorough cleaning and stocking up in the galley. I did make one major mistake while I was so busy making delicious food. The fan to the stove chimney wasn’t on all day, (because people we vacuuming and I couldn’t hear that it was on) and so soot built up and flew out all over the deck, a huge mess. Not the end of the world though, as Heather soon made it out to be. That night/evening I set up a game night on the forward deck, outside. It was a perfect evening. Everyone had a blast, and we all really got along. I finally made it happen after suggesting it during so many ‘open tables.’ I strung up rope lights between the shrouds, and had a bright light hanging from the mast for the stage area. We played Pictionary with the white board and then charades after that. We split into two (mixed officer and volunteer) teams, and really had a fun time. Everyone was laughing and commenting on how fun it was, except…surprise, surprise, our captain Michel. The one who’s supposed to hold us all together. I don’t know what his deal was, but he was such an asshole. He didn’t ruin the night, but definitely brought the energy down. At first it was fine, he played the games, then we all wanted to play charades and he just picked up a deck of cards and started playing solitare with his back to the action. What a jerk! It’s like, well if the attention isn’t on me, then I don’t care and don’t want anything to do with it. How old are you? Oh and the icing to the cake, was the other day when he said that ‘us’ not coming to lab with effect the way we act in an emergency together. What a load of B.S.! Like working as a team and building our bond as a group (playing games together), is petty compared to sitting in a circle uncomfortably in silence with a group of people of whom most don’t even want to be there! Grrrr! Whatever, his lost.
After the group games, the plan was to split into small groups and learn new games together like cribbage, mancala, bridge, chess. It was already 9:30 by the time we were done with the group stuff, and everyone was tired, so only a few stayed a bit and played cribbage, gin rummy, and mancala. Great night though, all in all. Glad I could do that for our group.
Wednesday, today, we spent all morning preparing to leave, and we made it out of Kitava at about 11 am. I did so many little jobs, fixing up stuff for the voyage, I was tired by the time we left. I was able to sleep a couple hours uninterrupted which was nice. The trip to Gizo in the Solomon Islands is 350 miles and will take us approximately 5 days. I hope to get there before Christmas. It would be great not to be on watch on Christmas. Speaking of watches, I got a really good one (for possibly my last real long watch). I’m with Zack, Heather, and Nicole on the 8-12. Hope it’s a good one. Again, as usual, I’m looking forward to getting there and being back in touch with home again.
December 20-21, 2007 En route to Gizo, Solomon Islands
So it’s been grueling traveling at a snail’s pace, trying to sail with no wind. One watch actually went 1 mile in 4 hours! The agony! Ahhh! We’ve now wasted 2 days putting around with the volunteers getting anxious and annoyed. This morning we finally decided to put the engine on and motor right into the wind (the direction we were trying to sail). I for one had a horribly boring day until I discovered Kris’s Ipod. Turns out we’re not so different after all. There is an Ipod option to delete all your music and copies someone else’s onto your Ipod, well I would actually do that our taste in music is so similar. Country, reggae, hippy music, old rock, it really made my day to hear some good music I haven’t heard in forever. She actually was a groupie back in college, for a few bands that I love.
During this voyage there has been new officers in training running watches. That is Zack, John, and Kris. I am strictly scientific coordinator, screw that mate stuff, being in charge and bossing everyone around to do stuff that you could do in 2 seconds yourself. The plan is that we will make it to Solomons by Christmas Eve, which is great news. And also the first 2 wks of the New Year in the Solomons will be ships work in morning and then time off in afternoon. I have lots to handle and get organized to finish the Kitava science study once we get to Gizo. James will be leaving and 2 new volunteers arrive in January along with Paul who comes for a month.
Tonight we had a solitice party, give me a break, seriously who celebrates the solitice? It was an ok event. Another ‘party’ atmosphere from the Infinity crew. We basically sat on the stern had a few drinks at sunset, ate snaky foods for dinner, and listened to South Pacific music followed by obnoxious whale songs made by Michel. Good to have a break for a bit though and relax all together. I am relieved to know that we will actually have Christmas and New Years in Gizo though, and not putting around out here at sea.
December 22-24, 2007 Still en route to Solomons
The wind has actually started to come. Well with rain and storms too. We have actually been slowly sailing along in the right direction believe it or not. Nice to be gaining some head way to get to Gizo (Solomon Island port) instead of just drifting out here between PNG and Solomons.
Can’t believe this short little trip lasted a week at sea! What a joke! We could have done 350 miles in 4 days. Instead we b.s.-ed around drifting and shutting the engine off for quiet time, dinners, and freakin tea time. Sorry so negative at the moment, but I’m just annoyed to the max with most of the crew members on board at the moment. I need a break from this ship for a day or two. It’s Christmas Eve and I definitely don’t feel in the Christmas mood.
Oh! We had the worst/most uncomfortable Sunday night dinner in existence! Max worked all afternoon to talk about boils and staff infections, researched them and everything. He was so excited, stood up to give his speech second and totally got shut down by Michel, Gaie, and especially Laser. Laser was such a douche! He basically told Max his material wasn’t speech worthy and he had to do his talk on a Tuesday night. John spoke up and said well he’s just speaking what’s on his mind. Again John gets shut down by the Laser too. He’s such a dick. He totally turned the mood around and I had to muster up some strength to give my speech when all I wanted to do was burst into tears. Oh and not to mention that only 2 Sundays ago, Kris spoke about pilot whales that she researched for a good 20 minutes.
We’ve finally arrived in Gizo though. It’s Christmas Eve and we’re anchored in Gizo harbor and we’re even going to get to go into town today too. How exicting! It feels like forever since I’ve been in a town.
No comments:
Post a Comment